I knit a lot of socks, and as a result, I end up with a lot of leftover sock yarn. I’ve channeled a lot of that yarn into the Mitered Square Blanket of Doom, but there are times where I want a project that’s smaller and more portable.
So I recently started knitting simple stockinette hats, and after knitting a few, I’ve ironed out a pretty good formula. I thought I’d write up the pattern here so that you could also have access to an easy way to use up your scraps and knit more sustainably.
This hat knitting pattern is graded to five sizes and is knit from the brim upward. This version of the pattern gives instructions for the blue and white striped version of the hat, but you can change your yarn colors at any point in the hat for other stripe configurations. This will give you more flexibility when using up lots of different little bits of leftovers.
One more note: like my other free patterns here, this pattern has been tech edited by my fabulous tech editor, Bonnie Davis. Just because you’re using a free pattern doesn’t mean you should have to settle for a suboptimal product.
Pattern Specs
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) – Finished brim circumference 16 (17.25, 18.25, 19.5, 20.5) in / 40.5 (44, 46.5, 49.5, 52) cm; Largest crown circumference 17 (18.25, 19.5, 20.5, 22) in / 43 (46.5, 49.5, 52, 56) cm. A note about sizing: most people prefer their hats to fit snugly. Choose the size that is smaller than your actual head circumference.
Materials: Fingering weight yarn, 245 (270, 280, 300, 320) yds; 224 (247, 256, 274, 293) m for a single-color version. For two-color version to match sample shown, use 70 (75, 80, 85, 90) yds; 64 (69, 73, 78, 82) m of Color A (brim and stripes) and 180 (195, 200, 215, 230) yds; 165 (178, 182, 197, 210) m of Color B (main color).
Sample shown knit in Coast to Coast Yarn Co. Classic Sock, 80% Superwash Merino, 20% Nylon, 400 yds (366 m) per 3.5 oz (100 g), colorway Fall from Grace; and Bad Sheep Yarn Basic Sock Fingering (affiliate link), 75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon, 462 yds (423 m) per 3.5 oz (100 g), colorway Feathers
Gauge: 4” (10 cm) square = 35 stitches x 48 rows
Needles: One set of needles for your preferred style of small-circumference knitting in a size to match gauge listed above. Suggested needle sizes: US 2 (2.75 mm).
Tools: One stitch marker to mark end of round; tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Skill level: Adventurous beginner. Skills include knitting in the round, decreases, changing yarns.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- kfb = knit into the front and back of the same stitch
- k2tog = knit two stitches together
- p = purl
- sk2togpsso = slip one stitch purlwise, knit two stitches together, pass slipped stitch over
- ssk = slip two stitches individually knitwise and knit together through the back loop
Pattern Instructions
Using your preferred cast-on method and Color A, cast on 140 (150, 160, 170, 180) stitches. Join for knitting in the round, being careful not to twist, and place a marker to mark the end of the round.
Knit in k1, p1 ribbing for 24 rounds.
Work a set-up round as follows: *Kfb, k14; repeat from * until 5 (0, 10, 5, 0) stitches remain, then knit to end of round. You’ll now have 149 (160, 170, 181, 192) stitches on your needles.
Knit one round.
Switch to Color B and knit 40 rounds.
Switch to Color A and knit three rounds.
Switch to Color B and knit three rounds.
Switch to Color A and knit three rounds.
Switch to Color B and knit three rounds.
Switch to Color A and knit three rounds.
Switch to Color B and knit 13 rounds.
Crown Decreases
Set-Up Round:
Size 1: Kfb, knit to end of round. (150 stitches) Continue to Decrease Round 9.
Size 2: No set-up round. Continue to Decrease Round 7.
Size 3: No set-up round. Continue to Decrease Round 5.
Size 4: K2tog, knit to end of round. (180 stitches) Continue to Decrease Round 3.
Size 5: K2tog, k 94, k2tog, k94. (190 stitches) Continue to Decrease Round 1.
Decrease Round 1: *K1, k2tog, k33, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 2 and all even Decrease Rounds: Knit to end of round.
Decrease Round 3: *K1, k2tog, k31, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 5: *K1, k2tog, k29, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 7: *K1, k2tog, k27, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 9: *K1, k2tog, k25, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 11: *K1, k2tog, k23, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 13: *K1, k2tog, k21, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 15: *K1, k2tog, k19, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 17: *K1, k2tog, k17, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 19: *K1, k2tog, k15, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 21: *K1, k2tog, k13, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 23: *K1, k2tog, k11, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 25: *K1, k2tog, k9, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 27: *K1, k2tog, k7, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 29: *K1, k2tog, k5, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 31: *K1, k2tog, k3, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 33: *K1, k2tog, k1, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 35: *K1, sk2togpsso; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease Round 37: K2tog to end of round.
Break yarn, thread loose end through remaining stitches, and pull tight to close. Secure and weave in loose ends. Block to desired shape.
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Cute! And just the thing for those little bits I’ve got hanging around 😁