When I started designing socks a decade ago, I was poking around online for variations on sock heels and discovered a gorgeous texture I had never seen before. It reminded me of the ripples in sand under shallow ocean waves.
It turns out I was looking at an Eye of Partridge heel. I fell in love, and I’ve used it on several patterns since.
Luckily, you can also add this texture to any other sock pattern, even where the pattern doesn’t call for it. In this blog post, we will look at how this heel works, when I recommend it, common problems people encounter when using this heel texture, and how to actually knit the Eye of Partridge heel.
What is the Eye of Partridge Heel
Technically, the Eye of Partridge heel refers to the texture on a heel flap, not a specific heel construction. It is created using alternated slip stitches that give extra cushioning to a knit project.
Most of the time, when you see people referring to an Eye of Partridge heel, they are referring to a heel flap and gusset with the Eye of Partridge texture on the heel. It is less common to see this texture used with other heel constructions.
How the Eye of Partridge Texture is Created
The Eye of Partridge texture is created by slipping stitches in a staggered or alternating fashion. On most socks with slipped stitches in the heel, you slip the same stitches at the same point on every right side row.
Using the Eye of Partridge texture, though, you slip different stitches on different right side rows. Here is a little chart showing how it works. The symbol in the chart shows when you are slipping stitches.
Why I Like the Eye of Partridge Heel
I love the Eye of Partridge heel for a few different reasons. First and foremost, it’s functional. This heel, like other slipped-stitch heels, is a self-reinforcing heel method.
The yarn behind each slipped stitch creates a layer for the inside of the sock heel to rub against the foot, while the outside layer of the sock heel continues to rub against the shoe. You essentially have two layers of yarn here, which means it will take twice as long to wear through and will be twice as squishy and comfortable while you do so.
The second reason I love the Eye of Partridge heel is that it is visually stunning. I have never pulled out a sock with an Eye of Partridge heel and shown it to other knitters without somebody gasping in excitement over how pretty the texture is.
I felt the same way the first time I saw it, and if I’m honest, I still frequently do. It is striking. If you love something with visual impact, Eye of Partridge heel is your friend.
Third, I love this heel because it’s fun to just change things up sometimes. While I tend to use the traditional slip stitch heel texture most frequently in my designs, sometimes I like doing something new. I try to keep things predictable for people who buy my patterns so they know what they’re getting, which means I don’t tend to change heel structure very often, but I definitely change up the texture.
When I Recommend Using this Heel Style
Based on the benefits I discussed above, you can probably guess when I’m going to recommend that you try out this heel texture. First and foremost, obviously, is whenever you want to add some reinforcement to a heel. While it is easier to use this heel texture with a heel flap and gusset, you can adapt to other heels, too.
I also recommend it whenever you want to make your knit sock look a little more interesting. This is especially the case if you are working on a vanilla sock and want to add just a little bit of excitement.
And finally, if you’re the type of knitter who gets bored knitting the same thing over and over again, and you’re getting tired of knitting the standard slipped stitch heel flap, try this one out. It’ll jazz things up for you as you are knitting as well as once you’re finished.
Eye of Partridge v. a Traditional Slipped Stitch Heel
So what distinguishes the Eye of Partridge heel from a traditional slipped stitch heel? Primarily, it is the order in which you slip the stitches.
In a traditional slipped stitch heel, you are slipping the same stitch every time on each right-side row. For me, that looks like a slip one, knit one, slip one, knit one texture on every row.
In the Eye of Partridge heel, you are staggering when you slip the stitches on every other right-side row.
In all other respects, the Eye of Partridge heel and the more traditional slipped stitch heel function very similarly. Because they have the same number of slipped stitches, they tend to come out to the same height and width. They have the same amount of reinforcement and cushioning for your heel.
In other words, the difference between the Eye of Partridge heel and a traditional slipped stitch heel is entirely an aesthetic one.
Common Problems and Troubleshooting
When knitters work an Eye of Partridge heel for the first time, they tend to make certain mistakes. Let’s cover each of them here and help you figure out how to avoid them.
Incorrect Slipping Technique
First, knitters sometimes slip the stitch incorrectly. You want to slip your stitch purlwise, that is, by inserting your needle tip into the stitch as if you’re going to purl it and then slipping it off the needle. Don’t slip your stitch knitwise.
Losing Your Place
The next common problem is losing your place in the repeat. This texture only really works if you precisely alternate the slipped stitches on the right-side rows. Learning to read your knitting will be very helpful here, because then you can look at your heel flap and see whether on the previous row you slipped or knit the stitch that you’re about to work.
If you’re not quite there yet, try using two different colored stitch markers. When you work row one, use the first stitch marker, and when you work row three, remove the first stitch marker and add the second stitch marker. Then you’ll always know, based on the color of the stitch marker, which row you completed on the previous right-side row.
Incorrect Yarn Placement
Another common problem is incorrect yarn placement. When you are working on the right side, you should be slipping your stitches with the yarn held in back. That means, even though I told you to slip your stitches purlwise, you’re not holding your yarn as if you’re going to purl, too. You’re just slipping your stitches purlwise, but the yarn stays behind your needles the whole time.
Tension Problems
Finally, tension problems can really horse up the look of this heel. If you struggle with rowing out, it will make it harder for the right-side stitches to pop. If you suspect that your purl stitches are significantly looser than your knit stitches, or vice versa, take a look at my post on how to fix rowing out. That’ll help smooth things out for you here, too.
How to Knit the Eye of Partridge Heel
- Divide stitches in half: heel and instep
- Work the first four rows of the heel flap as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): *Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.
- Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, purl remaining stitches to end of row.
- Row 3: Slip 2 purlwise with yarn in back, *k1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain, k2.
- Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl remaining stitches to end of row.
- Work the first four rows of the heel flap as follows:
- Continue repeating Rows 1-4, above, until you have the same number of rows as you have stitches across (Ex: 30 stitches, 30 rows)
- Turn the heel following steps a-e below.
- a: Knit half the stitches in the heel flap, then knit two more. Ssk, k1, turn.
- b: Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- c: Slip 1, knit to within first stitch from gap, ssk, k1, turn.
- d: Slip 1, purl to within first stitch from gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
- e: Repeat steps c and d until you have used up all the stitches in your heel flap, ending after working a WS row.
- Knit across heel stitches, and pick up and knit one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap.
- Pick up and knit one additional stitch where heel flap and beginning of instep join.
- Work in pattern across the instep stitches.
- Pick up and knit one stitch where end of instep and heel flap join.
- Pick up and knit one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the heel flap.
- Work one round, knitting the sole stitches and working the instep stitches in pattern.
- Knit to three stitches before instep, k2tog, k1, work instep stitches in pattern, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.
- Work one round, knitting the sole stitches and working the instep stitches in pattern.
- Repeat Steps 10 and 11 until you return to the original number of cast-on stitches. (Ex: If you started with 60 stitches, continue decreasing until you have 60 stitches again.)
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I love this heel! I’ve used it before. It looks nice, and serves the same purpose as the slip stitch heel.